How I Choose Metals for My Jewelry
There are many opinions about the materials used in jewelry, so I want to begin by sharing my own perspective. I approach jewelry first as a sculptor. My choice of metal and process is guided by the piece I'm creating: its form, weight, movement, function, and how I want it to feel when worn.
Rather than following a fixed hierarchy of materials, I choose the metal that best supports the design.
Understanding those choices can help you know what you are investing in. Metal affects the color, weight, price, durability, and care of a piece, but terms such as 18K gold, sterling silver, oxidation, vermeil, and plating are not always clearly explained.
This guide offers a simple introduction to the metals and processes I use throughout my work.
Solid Gold Jewelry: Karats, Durability, and Value
Solid gold means the gold is present throughout the piece, rather than applied only to the surface.
Pure gold is generally too soft for everyday jewelry, so it is combined with other metals to make it stronger. The karat tells you how much gold the mixture contains. For example, 18K gold contains more pure gold than 14K gold and has a rich, warm color.
Because the gold runs through the entire piece, it will not wear away like a plated surface. It may develop small scratches and signs of wear, but it can remain beautiful for generations with proper care.
Solid gold is valuable not only because of the material itself, but also because of the time, skill, and handwork involved in shaping it.
Sterling Silver Jewelry: What 925 Means
Sterling silver is bright, durable, and especially well suited to sculptural jewelry.
Pure silver is very soft and not frequently used in jewelry making. Sterling is the standard silver that I use. Sterling silver is made from 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. This added strength allows me to carve, cast, solder, and shape it into wearable forms. Whenever you see a silver piece of Jewelry stamped with 925 you can be sure it is this metal combination.
I often use sterling silver because it gives me the freedom to create larger, more dimensional pieces while keeping them comfortable and more approachable than solid gold.
Sterling silver can be polished to a bright finish or intentionally darkened through oxidation. It may also tarnish naturally over time. This is a surface reaction, not a sign that the piece is damaged, and bright silver can usually be cleaned gently with a polishing cloth.
Oxidized Silver Jewelry: Finish, Patina, and Care
Oxidized silver is sterling silver that I have intentionally darkened to create gray, charcoal, or black tones.
I use oxidation to bring out texture, shadow, and depth. It can also create a striking contrast against gold, gemstones, and pavé details.
Because oxidation is a surface finish, it will gradually change with wear. Areas that touch the skin or clothing may become brighter, while recessed areas often remain dark. I see this as part of the life of the piece. Over time, it develops a patina that reflects how it has been worn.
Oxidized silver should not be cleaned with polishing cloths, polishing dips, or abrasive products, as these can remove the finish. Clean it gently with a soft cloth. The oxidation can also be refreshed by the studio when needed.
Gold Vermeil vs. Gold-Plated Jewelry
When I use a gold surface finish, I work with a substantial layer of real gold rather than the very thin plating often used in jewelry.
Vermeil specifically uses sterling silver beneath the gold and requires a gold layer at least 2.5 microns thick. Traditional gold plating can be much thinner. In some of my sculptural pieces, I apply gold over copper at the same substantial thickness as vermeil or greater. Because the base metal is copper rather than sterling silver, these pieces are not technically vermeil, even though the gold layer is comparable.
I choose these finishes because they let me bring the warmth and richness of gold into larger, more sculptural pieces without the weight or cost of making the entire form in solid gold.
A gold surface finish will age differently from solid gold. With regular wear, it may gradually scratch, soften, or wear in the areas that receive the most contact. I think of that as part of the life of the piece rather than a flaw in the material, which can also be renewed through replating if desired. To help preserve the finish, avoid water, perfume, lotions, cleaning products, and heavy abrasion.
Electroformed Jewelry: Lightweight Sculptural Forms
Electroforming is a process that allows metal to build gradually over a form.
I have used this process to create bold, dimensional jewelry that remains light enough to wear comfortably. It has played an important role in pushing the limits of my sculptural work, especially in pieces that explore organic form, volume, and movement.
Electroformed pieces are durable but should be worn with care and kept away from water and chemicals. Clean them only with a soft cloth.
Studio perspective
For me, these pieces sit between sculpture and adornment. They have presence without unnecessary weight.
Mixed-Metal Jewelry: Combining Silver and Gold
Many of my pieces combine more than one metal.
You may see sterling silver with solid gold accents, oxidized silver with bright gold details, or silver forms finished with gold bezels and contrasting links.
Each metal has a role within the design. Gold can draw attention to a stone. Oxidized silver creates shadow. Bright silver reflects light. Together, they bring contrast, depth, and movement to the piece.
Mixed-metal jewelry is also easy to wear because it connects silver and gold, allowing it to work naturally with jewelry you may already own.
How to Choose the Right Metal for Your Jewelry
Solid gold is a strong choice for long-term wear, lasting value, and durability.
Sterling silver offers brightness, strength, and sculptural form at a more accessible price.
Oxidized silver is well suited to those who enjoy darker tones, contrast, and a finish that develops with wear.
Gold-plated and vermeil pieces offer the warmth of gold in larger or more dimensional forms, but they require more careful handling.
Mixed metals are a good choice for those who wear both silver and gold or enjoy greater contrast within a design.
There is no single best metal. The right choice depends on the piece, your lifestyle, and how you plan to wear it.
How to Care for Different Jewelry Metals
All jewelry benefits from thoughtful care.
Remove your jewelry before swimming, showering, exercising, or using lotions, perfumes, and household cleaning products. Store pieces separately so they do not scratch or rub against one another.
Solid gold and sterling silver are generally more forgiving. Oxidized, plated, and vermeil surfaces need additional care because their finishes live on the outside of the metal.
Jewelry is made to be worn, but careful handling will help preserve its beauty.